As a Rottie owner for the past 20 years, I have to admit, that in a lot of cases, I did more harm than good when it came to caring for and feeding my dogs. Just like everyone else, I was brainwashed by the clever marketing of dog food companies and my vet. I fed a high grain based diet and over vaccinated my dogs. In the end my last two girls paid the ultimate price for my ignorance. They both died of cancer and one also suffered from thyroid dysfunction. This is not to say that diet and vaccinations cause all cancer, but they do contribute to the health problems of dogs.

It wasn’t that I was a bad owner or that I didn’t care about my dogs. I just did not know any better. It never occurred to me that pet food companies and even my trusted vet would mislead me into harming my pets through poor nutritional products. Frankly, I don’t think that most vets realize it themselves. Pet food companies largely support veterinary research. As a vet, wouldn’t you trust someone who was handing you millions each year? You can read more on grains in pet foods here http://www.pets4life.com/index.php?p=research/articles/14 .

After the loss of my last female Cissy, I started asking a lot of questions and doing research. To my horror, I realized that I had contributed to her illness and may have even caused it by feeding her a low quality grain filled diet and being a “Good Pet Owner” by vaccinating her every year. New vaccination studies have shown that yearly vaccinations can do much more harm than good. http://www.doglogic.com/vaccineinfo.htm#news

Shortly after her death, I was asked to foster two eleven-week-old pups; a male and a female that I named Atticus and Nala. Of course I fell in love with them and decided to adopt them. In that process I also decided to do things differently.

While I feverishly read everything about diet I could get my hands on I fed them what I thought was a high quality food for large breed puppies. Within a month Atticus had developed Panosteitis. My vet suggested a low protein diet; the only dog food that I could find that was low protein was “diet or light” food for overweight dogs. After reading the label, I realized that the food did not contain nearly enough calories or nutrients to support a growing puppy. That was the turning point for my vet and me. I decided to become responsible for their health and to think outside the box.

With the help of a canine nutritionist, Lew Olson, I switched all of my dogs to a raw diet. Within two weeks, Atticus’s panosteitis was gone. My vet argued that the diet was even higher in protein than the large breed puppy food (28% protein) I had previously been feeding. He instructed me that the diet was dangerous and was adamant that I change to a commercial food.

With the help of the online USDA nutrient database, I formulated a spreadsheet, which showed the protein contents of what I was feeding. It came out to an average of 17% protein, which is optimum for a growing large breed dog. My vet had not taken into account that raw foods are 70-80% moisture. At that point in time, he had to admit that I knew more about nutrition than he did and we called a truce. To this day he marvels at the condition of my dogs, even though he only sees them once a year for a checkup. However, as a rescuer, he has seen the benefits in dozens of dogs that have come through my home.

Making the switch

When I first started feeding raw, I also had an older girl named Sheba who was my very first rescue. Sheba was always a chore to feed. I had to sit on the floor and hand feed her to get her to eat. I practically had to beg her to eat. She was gassy, had a greasy coat, and the most horrible breath you can imagine.

At first she would simply refuse to eat. So on the advice of some wonderful people on the K9Nutrion yahoo group, I began to trick her into eating. If she was having chicken for dinner, I browned it very lightly, just until the fat began to render and sprinkled it with garlic powder and a little salt. As she became more accustomed to this I weaned her off the browned chicken to a completely raw diet. My once finicky eater became an avid fan of food and would dance and spin for her dish. She would almost knock me down to get her bowl. After two weeks she blew her entire coat and the fur that came in was luxuriously soft, incredibly shiny and sweet smelling. Her terrible “Death Breath” disappeared, and so did her constant gas. Her energy level tripled and she became so active that I had to increase the amounts that I was feeding her. My six-year-old girl was acting like a pup again!

After seeing similar benefits in my other dogs, I knew that I had made the right choice.

Getting Started

There are several different philosophies on raw feeding. Raw feeding is also called the BARF diet. BARF can stand for Biologically Appropriate Raw Foods or Bones And Raw Foods. I feed what is called Prey Model. Prey Model feeding is basically trying to mimic the meat, organ and bone content of common prey animals that the dog would eat in the wild. Although a lot of raw feeders suggest feeding vegetables and grains, as a prey model feeder I avoid these. The Merck Veterinary Manual clearly states that dogs have absolutely no metabolic need for carbohydrates. I do feed them on occasion but as snacks or treats.

Before starting this diet I suggest strongly that you read as many books as possible on raw feeding and do the research. It is important to understand the principles of this diet in order to do it right. I am not saying that this is rocket science, it isn’t. Actually it is very easy and less expensive than feeding a high quality dog food, but you should be aware of the basics before starting. 

What I Feed

As a Prey Model Feeder I feed 50% RMB’S (Raw Meaty Bones), 40% Muscle Meat and 10% Organs. Any thing higher than 50% RMB’s is too high in calcium and can cause problems. Below is a list and definition of some of these three ingredients. Once you get the hang of it, any animal source can become food. Be creative and be sure to give your dogs lots of variety. Use common sense and enjoy “hunting” for your dog. Please note that when starting a new dog onto a raw diet it is best to stick to one source of protein for the first two weeks. I usually start them on Chicken parts, ground chicken or turkey, and Chicken Livers and whole eggs for the first two weeks and after that introduce other proteins gradually one at the time.

RMB’S (Raw Meaty Bones)

Chicken leg quarters (these do not contain enough bone and I would use them sparingly)
Chicken or Turkey wings, necks or backs
Pork Neck Bones
Whole fish or canned jack mackerel
Emu Necks
Deer Necks
Ribs of any animal

**Avoid large weight bearing bones, like leg bones of cattle and large animals. These are teeth breakers. Any other cut though is usually fine as long as it is 50% bone.
NEVER FEED COOKED BONE

Muscle Meat

Muscle meat is any meat with no bones.  Heart is also considered muscle meat, not organ meat.  Some of the things I feed are as follows;

Ground or Boneless;

Turkey

Chicken

Pork

Beef

Emu,

Venison

Catfish nuggets

Beef, Pork, Emu, Chicken, or Turkey hearts

Lamb

Elk

Goat

Organ Meats

Organ meats can be liver, spleen, kidneys, pancreas, lungs, brains etc.  I usually stick to liver and try to get the most organic source since the liver is the organ that filters toxins from the body.  Commercially raised animals are full of hormones, antibiotics and god knows what.  My liver of Choice is the local farm raised Emu.  You will have fun trying to find sources for organic or at least farm raised organs.  During hunting season I usually contact deer processors to get completely wild organs and sometimes they are free! If you can't find anything close to organic organs, just feed beef or chicken.  Raw food is going to be more nutritious than anything you find in a bag anyway.

Extras

I add some of these items as additions or substitutions for muscle meats. I also use them as treats. When feeding dairy products, feed whole fat, do not feed that low fat/fat free nonsense to your dogs.

Cottage Cheese

Plain Yogurt

Whole Raw Eggs

Kefir

Any vegetable (except onions)

Any Fruit (except grapes and raisins)

Plain Canned Pumpkin (not the pie mix) is great for upset tummies. It will stop the trots and get a stopped system moving. It is a miracle food for dogs. A few tablespoons twice a day usually does the trick.

How Much To Feed

Generally I feed between 2-3% of their body weight. So for a 100-pound dog, I would start off feeding 2 lbs a day. There is an incredible spreadsheet that works this all out for you at http://www.rawdogranch.com/howmuch.htm it even gives you a totals sheet for up to 12 dogs so that you can plan your purchases for a month.

Large breeds tend to eat less than smaller breeds and puppies should always be fed at their expected adult weight, so for a nice strapping 20 lb Rottie pup that you expect to weigh 100 lbs, you should be feeding based upon 100lbs. He needs this extra nutrition to grow.

I have seen some people feed very active dogs as much as 5% and less active dogs as little as 1%. The beauty of feeding this way is that you can adjust it as needed without having to overhaul the whole system.

Breaking it Down

You have a 100lb dog, that you are going to feed based upon Prey Model of 50% RMB’s, 40% Muscle, and 10% Organs. You start by feeding 2% of the dog’s current weight.

100 x 2% = 2lbs

2 x 16 = 32 ounces (2 lbs x 16 ounces per pound)

32 ounces x 50% = 16 ounces or one pound of RMB’S

32 ounces x 40% = 12.8 ounces of Muscle Meat

32 ounces x 10% = 3.2 ounces of Organ Meat

Total 32 ounces or two pounds

See it’s not rocket science! It is very easy and takes almost no time. Having some basic tools will help you. I use a digital postage scale to weigh ingredients. My scale has the ability to zero out in between ingredients. I plop the bowl on the scale, zero out the bowl weight, add the first ingredient, zero out the scale weight, add the second, zero out the scale weight, and then add the third ingredient. It takes me approximately 10 minutes to prepare 6-7 bowls with supplements each day.

Weight Loss or Gain

Your dog should never gain or lose more than 10% of its current weight in a month. So if your dog weighs 120 lbs but needs to weigh 90 lbs, you would feed based upon a goal weight of 108 lbs for the first month and adjust monthly from there.

120 lbs x 10% = 12 lbs.

120lbs – 12 lbs = 108 lbs

You would reverse this for weight gain.

What About Supplements?

Some people say these are an absolute must and some say none are needed. I think you have to do the research and decide what you are comfortable doing. Two supplements that I think are an absolute must are Fish Oil (not cod liver oil) and Vitamin E. Most of the foods we feed our dogs are high in Omega 6’s and in order to get the proper balance of essential fatty acids, Omega 3 must be added. The best source of this is Fish Body Oil. There are some vegetable sources of Omega 3 (Flax or Borage Oil) but the body cannot use them as readily, so animal sources of Omega 3’s is much better. I use a Marine Lipid Concentrate that I purchase from www.wonderlabs.com , it is a good product and the price is reasonable. In order for the body to process the Omega 3’s it must have vitamin E present in the system. So I usually give these together.

Vitamin E minimum dosage:
0-25 pounds - 50-100 IUs
25-50 pounds 100-200 IUs
50-75 pounds 400 IUs
75- 100 pounds 400-800 IUs

Omega-3 fatty acid minimum dosage:

Omega 3 Fatty acids are DHA and EPA, a 1000mg Fish Oil capsule can contain as little as 100mg combined DHA/EPA, so for a 100 lb dog you would need to feed 10! Check the label, the dosage recommended is for DHA/EPA content.

0-25 pounds - 100 mg
25-50 pounds - 250 mg
50-75 pounds - 500 mg
100 pounds - 1000 mg

 Alfalfa- Powdered form

• Small dog - 1/8 teaspoon
• Medium dog - 1/4 teaspoon
• Large dog - 1/2 teaspoon

 Seaweed or kelp powder

Mix with food daily in these amounts:
• Small dog - 1/8 teaspoon
• Medium dog - 1/4 teaspoon
• Large dog - 1/2 teaspoon 

I also give a B-complex tablet every other day and you can also add probiotics and digestive enzymes too.

Other Additions

These are not necessary for everyday but can be helpful with fleas or other problems.

Apple Cider Vinegar minimum dosage:
0-25 pounds - 1/2 teaspoon
25-50 pounds - one teaspoon
50-75 pounds - 1/2 tablespoon
100 pounds - one tablespoon

Garlic minimum dosage:
0-25 pounds - 1/8 chopped clove
25-50 pounds - 1/4 chopped clove
50-75 pounds - 3/4 chopped clove
100 pounds - one chopped clove

Benefits of Raw Feeding

Clean, fresh breath

Clean, shiny, white teeth

More energy ('acting like a puppy again') and/or more stable energy (no hyperactivity)

Softer, shinier coat

No doggy odor to their coat

Firmer, more muscled body that is not 'doughy' like their kibble-fed counterparts

Decreased itching and scratching

Better weight maintenance

Overall better health (evidenced by less trips to the vet and less money spent on vet bills)

Smaller, almost odorless poops that are quick to decompose

Stronger immune system

Myths About Raw Feeding (All are links to explanations of the myths)

Dogs are omnivores
Wolves eat the stomach contents of prey
Dogs are too far removed from wolves to be fed a raw diet
Dogs have adapted to cooked diets
Dogs live longer today because of commercial foods
Wolves have shortened lifespans because of their diet
Millions of dogs safely eat commercial foods, so why raw?
Raw diets are not balanced
Bacteria in raw meat is dangerous to my pet
My pet will get parasites from the raw meat
Raw-fed dogs pose a serious health risk to humans
Raw diets vs. the AAFCO standards
There is no scientific research to validate raw diets
Feeding raw meat makes a dog bloodthirsty
Raw meat will make a dog more aggressive
I am not knowledgeable enough to make my dog's food
Raw diets are not very digestible
Raw diets are inconvenient and expensive
Different breeds of dogs need different diets
Because of the risks of bones, ground raw diets are better
Plenty of premium kibbles are available, so raw is unnecessary
Home-made, cooked diets are viable alternatives to raw
Vets are thoroughly qualified to dispense nutritional advice
Small dogs and toy breeds cannot eat raw diets
Carbohydrates are necessary in dog's diet

Additional Links

www.rawdogranch.com

www.dogaware.com

http://b-naturals.com/Mar2005.php

http://b-naturals.com/Apr2005.php

http://b-naturals.com/Feb2003.php

What is in Commercial Pet Food?

http://www.flint-river-ranch.info/articles.htm

http://www.barfworld.com/html/learn_more/processed.shtml

Dog Food Comparison Wizard

http://www.naturapet.com/display.php?d=comp-wiz&naturaid=62

Common Sense Vs. Nonsense

http://www.naturalrearing.com/J_In_Learning/Diet/Food/CommonSense.htm

Please feel free to email me with any questions you may have at info@adoptarott.net . I also urge you to join the K9Nutrition list at Yahoo Groups. The people there are very helpful and Lew Olson, a Canine Nutritionist and developer of B-Naturals, owns the list. She is a breeder of champion Rottweilers and currently lives with 19 of them.

Disclaimer: I am not a veterinarian and my advice should not be used in place of the sage advice of your vet. This article is the result of personal experience and is not meant to replace meaningful treatment and dialog with your veterinarian. For more info on natural diets visit us online at www.wholesomehound.com. All purchases help to support rescue.

Copyright 2006-2007, Anna Muldoon, President, Adoptarott.net